About this 3D model
This is for the E3D all-metal hot end from http://e3d-online.com, specifically the Bowden version. (Totally worth the extra money!) I have also designed part cooling fan ducts specifically to work with this mount, when the hot end is mounted under the effector (not above): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:487768 **6/7/15:** Version 6 upper and lower now have marginally tighter tolerances. I found that the previous version worked better with some filaments than others, presumably because some experience more die swell (thermal expansion after it comes out of the nozzle) than others. The new version will offer a tighter fit. If you print it and it's too tight, try reducing filament flow. For parts like this that require tight tolerances, it's a good idea to measure your filament with a digital micrometer in 10 different places. Put the average into your slicer as the filament diameter. **10/6/14:** Version 6 upper and lower mounting plates have been changed to match the E3D v6's mounting profile. **If you're using an older version, print this and throw the old one away!** The old version works alright, but is less resistant to letting the hot end get knocked around by running into printed plastic that isn't laying flat. This can cause layer shifting! The new plates have been altered (lower is taller, upper is shorter) to fit perfectly. . **Your hot end mount is critical in maintaining high print quality! If you use this, it's a good idea to use the Watch feature so you can get updates when new versions are released.** . **NOTE:** This comes with top-mount spacers that you can print for mounting your E3D on top of the effector platform. **I get jams when I do this.** If you can't get your hot end to print PLA without jamming, mount the hot end UNDER the effector. I suspect it has something to do with the effector absorbing heat from the hot end and radiating it back. When it's mounted underneath, the problem goes away. . Older changelogs are in the Instructions tab. . I got the general idea of how to do a groovemount from http://tricklaser.com/ and the two-plate idea from h3ss. The model was done from scratch in Sketchup. . **NOTE:** Make sure you have your fan turned on all the time. Hot wire it if you can. If you have the extruder heat turned on but the fan is turned off, the mounting plates may warp.