About this 3D model

This is a replica of the Iron Lord Axe from Destiny: Rise of Iron. Print four of the axe quarters, you can use small dowels or rods to hold the left and right halves together, while the front and back was meant to be held on with magnets. You'll need to get twelve 1/4 inch and twelve 3/8 inch rare earth magnets that are 1/10 of an inch thick. The interface will hold the quarters, and can be friction fit (though I would use E6000 or epoxy) on to a, 1 1/4" aluminum tube One thing I would like to mention, when I started on this, I used the Iron Emblem that serves as the cover image for the Rise of Iron. The axe depicted there has a different height to width ratio than the in game model, at this point, I have changed the aspect ratio of the axe to follow that of the in game model The Grip file is optional, I am wrapping my grip in a leather braid, but I felt that not everyone would want to or even be able to do this, so I made a facsimile that you can print and use in place of real leather, it will slip right over the grip base, and will couple with the grip trim, you'll likely need to glue these parts together Print Settings Printer Brand: Printrbot Printer: Simple Black Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 100-200 Microns Infill: Yes Notes: Print settings for success:Axe Heads: Print using a brim, 3 layers (1.2mm) and an infill of 30%. Support material is crucial and I recommend using a grid structure instead of lines, %20 fill. The heads are tall and fairly thin, you can make use of minimal layer cooling time to slow down the printing process at the upper section. I have my printer set to 40mm/sec for outer shell, 60mm/sec for inner shells, and 80mm/sec for the infill. I set my layer cooling time to 60 seconds and printed two quarters (axe head half stl) at the same time, this will take about 32 hours with these settings. If you are having issues with the tops wiggling too much or don't want to deal with magnets, try using the Fused Axe Half instead Pommel: 10-15% infill, three shells. Support should be lines, and your slicer should only generate support for the middle hole (this hole is meant to hold a battery pack). No brim or raft is needed, nor are any special settings (such as an extended layer cooling time) Pole interface: Like the pommel, this needs no special settings, with the exception of infill. As this is mounting onto a pole and holding the axe head, it needs to be strong, use 60%-80% infill for this part, support can be lines to simplify removal, but I recommend having a fill density of 30% Grip base: Nothing special here, if it's too tall (was for me) just halve the height and print it twice Grip Trim: Nothing special here, print how you like Grip: Shouldn't need anything special, but if you are having a hard time with bed adhesion, use a brim. This part is optional, and can be replaced with leather. If you do make use of it, print it in black Axe head rib: This part fits inside a left/right half to help prevent flexing, nothing too special on this, use a minimum of 30% infill. Should only be needed if you are printing separate head quarters Trinket Cart: This part is meant to hold an Adafruit Pro Trinket inside the pole, your preferred settings will be fine Post-Printing Step one: getting the axe heads together To get the left and right halves of the axe heads together, I used a 1/8th inch brass rod from a hardware store, and cut that into small lengths. You will see a few holes in the axe that are about the same size, you may need to drill those out with a 1/8th inch drill bit. Soft fit the lengths of rod into the holes, and mark the point that they come out with a marker, pull the rods out and cut them so that the mark is in the middle of the segment. Add a dab of E6000 glue to each of the holes and reinsert the rods in a 1-2-1 pattern (Rod in on left, rod on right, rod on left) then press the two halves gently but firmly together. Fill any gap you get with epoxy putty /bondo. Let everything set Grab the rib parts and the pole interface. Place the pole interface on the half and use that as a guide as the where to put the rib. I put my rib about 1 cm above the top of the interface. Use E600 again to ensure a strong bond, but also use something like super glue or bondic to help hold the rib in place as the E6000 sets. Place the half against a table or other flat surface, inside down, while holding the rib in place while the superglue sets. This will prevent flexing When that is set, it's time to insert the magnets. Again, you may have to drill out the magnet holes a little. To do this, I found it was useful to get a Dremel router bit, 1/4 inch in size. The smaller magnet holes are that size, and you should be able to press the bit into the hole, on the back if the bit is a slot you can use to turn the bit with a screw driver. Using a screwdriver and not a dremel for this step will result in a tighter fitting hole. That being said, if you cannot or do not want to get a 3/8ths inch router bit fo