About this 3D model

FEATURES - Chassis, body and pilot are real 1:5 scale - Body (fairing) and Pilot designed to be printed in TPU, increasing durability - Everything turns freely and correctly thanks to its 11 bearings for the chassis and 4 more for the "Flying wheels" - Fully Functional Front and Rear Suspension System. - Standard steering system for 1:5 scale, allows the bike to start and finish turns as expected - Simple auto-correction/steering-stabilizer/Servo-Saver system ;) - Use standard XL belt for transmission to wheel system - Belt tensioner allows the perfect fit - Big space for 2S Battery. Max. 140x50x16mm aprox. 4000mAh - Standard wheel hubs for more wheel compatibility - No stinging, cutting or dangerous elements stand out of the motorbike. All exterior parts but forks and wheels are soft material Take a look to the MyRCBike NSR500 V1 in its first ride... the "Flying wheels" were quite long, the shell of the bike and the rider were printed in TPU, and I was using a very good Brushless sensored Motor+ESC If you preffer to see things under your own point of view, use the next 3D scan ;) ARE YOU READY?¿? If driving four wheels can be complicated, more when it comes to 3d printed vehicles, maybe driving 3d printed 2 wheel bike can seem to be impossible. If you also consider the price of the parts to buy, apparently picky ones, and the supposed fragility of a 2 wheel vehicle, probably you will let this idea to pass away... and I don't blame you...) But there I am, an "exclusivity" non-conformist, who discovered something as simple as the electronics involved in 1/5 RC bikes are the same as the ones from 1/10 RC cars... which I know, have available from previous MyRCCar projects and are easy to buy. I could enjoy this hobby when I was a child thanks to my "lucky uncle" and the Kyosho NSR500 FA Series he gave me, plus all the time he dedicated to me, but I never really dominated the hobby... Some time ago I started thinking about upgrading this 90's RC bike with new Li-Po and Brushless but soon I realized that the 1/7-1/8 scale was not convenient for me to use my typical M3 screws and known RC electronics. Let me also mention someone, one of my actual few "influencers" who "influence" me over and over with his good work... We are talking about Brett Turnage, the creator of the most amazing 3d printable RC projects available in the net; at least they are for me. But not only that... The level of his presentations is actually my goal to achieve and motivates me in many ways. Finally, you must know that Rockser3D has helped me a lot with "rigging, skinning, and posing" the racer buddy, skills that are a little too much for my right now. The Pilot is not part of the product, but you can get it after uploading some photos of your MyRCBike build and letting us know a little about your first experiences with it. The Pilot has no sex or face. It looks like my cousin Rockser3D wanted to emulate some kind of robot in the pelvic zone, but also a ghostly hole in the inside of the helmet that could allow us to print and personalize your own face or the one of your enemy... If he/she is so ugly, just put down the helmet's windshield ;) And better not talking about holding system for the pilot... it could be even inappropriate for some ages… :S SHOPPING LIST How expensive is it? In great numbers you can spend between 60 and 200 in 1/10 electronics, 50 in wheels and belt, 20 more for bearings, screws and other hardware and around 20 more in PLA and TPU filament. Already there?¿? Electronics:Once you know electronics (1/10 scale) are not specially complicated or expensive (you can get them locally or in aliexpress, etc.) there are some other parts pending as the front Fork. It looks (and probably it is) something very precise, necessary for the correct work of the bike. We can see the prices for these front forks from 50 to 150€... and without wheel!!! Front Fork:Front Fork is then one of the elements I made 3d printable. Anyway, I consider necessary using metallic shafts for each of the two front "shocking tubes", the same as a pair of 10x32mm more common springs which really makes the front shocking action. I created some "TPU seals" for the front fork shocks so you can try, and probably achieve to put some silicone/oil in those tubes. Actually, the front shock shafts are two 5x85mm piano wire rods. Bearings:All moving parts of the bike are working with bearings. I wanted to use the most standard size for all of them, 5x10x4mm, being these bearings so cheap and easy to find. You will need 15 of these bearings for the bike, including the 4 you need for the "flying wheels". Belt:In this bike, the transmission from the motor to the rear wheel is made in two "reduction" steps. We can find the first one between the motor pinion and the geared crown in the right side of the motorbike. Actually this gears are Mod1, the pinion can have between 14T and 20T and the crown can have a max of 46T in Mod1 (48mm max diameter). This model includes a