About this 3D model

A version of the ball joint that allows you to manage large angles with continuous modulation of the clutch and that maintains reduced dimensions and strength, combined with a modular system that can be completely configured in any size and shape, to cover the different needs that may arise. Starting from the joint, which is the most elaborate part of the system, you can see that there is an evolution in the model, but each version has some features that are worth considering to see which one suits the needs best.In addition to the structural and performance differences, there are also differences in the work required for assembly.Versions 1.0 and 1.5 are similar for the assembly procedure and differ in load capacities, which are obviously greater in version 1.5 which is slightly larger.Version 2.0 is an evolution in which I tried to exploit the greater resistance of the printed material in the direction of the effort it has to support instead of with the perpendicular layers and thanks to this system I was able to make a joint that is resistant as, if not of more than version 1.5, but with dimensions smaller than 1.0.The price to pay for version 2.0 is more work required for assembly.All versions need a running-in period, and in all versions the concept of tolerance is managed differently, but always aimed at ensuring that after running-in the necessary clutches are the ones needed, as well as being continuous through the load placed with the tightening or loosening the two external parts that will compress the balls on the two braking pads (as well as on their own walls).At the heart of the system there is the element that keeps the clutch modulation high and guarantees a prolonged duration over time, after running in. this element consists of a rubber disk, which can be obtained from any inner tube of a wheel or from any other part that has that type of rubber (even a piece made from an elastic has the same characteristics and with an elastic as those of 5 or 10mm wide, disks are obtained for a long time).The thickness of the rubber needed will vary over time and will allow you to recalibrate the clutch every time it becomes impossible to increase it simply by turning the bodies, but thanks to this you will always have an effective joint, and thanks to the elasticity of the rubber the thrust will continue. to exist even with the consumption of plastic requiring a less frequent recalibration, with the effect that will increase in duration over time in a proportional way to the coupling of the parts that rub.Obviously, the fluidity of the movement will also increase over time.To obtain the performance and keep the dimensions small, not only plastic can be used, but metal must be used: the axes that fit into the balls are 3mm screws without the heads, which can be obtained from simple screws of length suitable or by threaded bars, always cut into parts of the necessary and desired length.The assembly work therefore consists in obtaining the rubber and the screws and in cutting everything to size and then screwing them on the spheres (which are cut in half for an optimal print).The size of the screws cannot be less than the length necessary for the assembly of the two halves of the external bodies ringed between the two spheres, but it can be easily greater, for special needs (it must be considered that extreme angles are covered with a single joint and with more than one in series, contosional maneuvers are made, if necessary), so maybe for someone even just one may be enough, but with a longer screw, perhaps to be associated with one or more twins upright frontally on a truss made with forms. Or you can mount more joints in series for the third, fourth and fifth hands ... the limit is only the imagination, (see picturesWe come to the tolerances: as soon as they are molded they will be hard to screw and the balls will move very little smoothly and that is why I talked about the running-in phase.For versions 1.0 and 1.5 I recommend an assembly of the two shells, to be screwed and unscrewed several times, until they become smoothly flowing threads and I suggest to clean the threads at each step, because the dust tends to seize and once cleaned to lubricate slightly before screwing it back on (it will only take until they have dissolved obviously, a matter of a minute).Once the threads have been loosened, you can insert the spheres with the axes mounted and do a lot of gymnastics, progressively increasing the friction, until the steps of the print layers settle, enough, the rest of the fluidity will come with time. If you make chains of more joints, it will be more complicated at first, I have them broken in and then I coupled them. Version 2.0 is a little more complicated to assemble due to the fact that the printing of the threads horizontally is more critical and to guarantee an effective seal it must be molded more "tightly", so you will find the work of first coupling the threads extremely hard. , but sti