About this 3D model

Oh bother, this is an LED lamp of the honey-addicted bear, Winnie the Pooh. How do I make this thing?! Easy! Just follow these general steps, and you'll be lighting up your life in no time. Pay attention, as there will be a quiz later. Download the model to your computer or open it in the Handy app. I suggest downloading it and opening it so you can remove the purge line (Google is your friend here). I also strongly suggest using the included profile, as it contains many little tweaks to prevent problems that are common with these types of lamps (gaps, wisps, separation, etc.) Confirm whether you have enough AMS's to handle all of the colors. I do my best to keep my lamps to 4 colors or less, but sometimes that's just not possible, and a second AMS will be needed. Alternatively, you can build in pauses and conduct manual filament swaps, but you'll need to research how to do that on your own, because I'm not good at that. Ensure your filament colors are in the correct AMS slots that corresponds to the model. Hint: I generally arrange my colors in alphabetical order, because I'm weird like that. Just be cautious of wildcards like "light blue". All of my models come with two different back plates. One will have a hole for those of you that want to hang the lamp on a wall. The other will not have a hole, and that's intended for those of you who will be placing the lamp on a desk or a table or a cat. You do NOT need to print both back plates (or do, I don't care, I'm not your mother). Pick whichever one you want. Some lamps will also come with a base. This is to keep your lamp from tipping over like a drunk toddler if you're placing it on a flat surface. If you're hanging it on a wall, you don't need the base. I strongly recommend using a textured PEI plate, as that will do an excellent job in hiding the print lines, and that's what these prints are tweaked for. But you can use whatever fancy plate you want -- again, I'm not your mom. Once you've got your AMS set up and are ready to go, hit that big ol' PRINT button for the lamp face and then your back plate. I suggest disabling Flow Calibration. Go make a sandwich. You should now have the lamp face and your back plate of choice, and it's assembly time! This first step is optional, but I would suggest picking up aluminum (or aluminium for some reason if you're British) foil tape. Yes, it comes in tape form! Line the inner side of the back plate with the sticky stuff, as it will help tremendously in making your light brighter and with a more even and consistent light. I personally tear off small strips, apply, and then flatten/smooth it out with the edge of a credit card, and repeat until the entire side is shiny silver. Next you're going to want to buy yourself some LEDs. The options here are many and varied, and I can't decide for you (see mom comment above). Decide what types of light you want. Do you want basic white light? Great! Do you want cool white or warm white? Do you want it to flash or dance to the music? Do you want a switch? Do you want a remote? Do you want it to be USB or higher voltage? Have you changed your mind and want it to be multi-colored or able to change color to the seasons or your mood? What I can do is make some suggestions. First, there are several kinds of LEDs that are typically used in these types of lamps. The first is a basic LED strip, which is a roll of circuit board tape with a sticky back-end. These are the simplest and easiest to use. Next is what's called a COB strip, which is basically the same, but instead of an LED every inch, it has a solid band of light. Then there's neon COBs, which are self-explanatory. There's also LED dome bulbs, which you would apply directly to the backplate, but would require soldering. Whatever you choose, you want to look for the following: - A way to power the thing. USB, DC, solar panels, steam engine -- doesn't matter, just as long as you can turn it on and off. - A way to trim the length. Most LED strips have areas on them that are safe to cut with scissors as long as you cut precisely along the indicated area. Once you make that cut, the part of the LED strip that's still connected to the power will function, but the remainder will no longer function (there are ways to repower them, but generally require soldering and/or special clips and new controllers. Google is still your buddy here). A way to secure the strip to the inside of the lamp. Most LED strips come with an adhesive side, but not all -- make sure you know what you're buying. In a pinch, hot glue will do the trick. An LED strip length of 1m is usually sufficient, but some lamps do exceed that length. Test EVERY strip before you apply it. All of my lamps come with a hole in the side of the case that's just big enough for threading through the LED strip (if you don't want the hole, you can cover it with a small piece of electrical tape). Thread the USB cable (or whatever power source you chose) from the inside through to the out