About this 3D model

Summary While all the parts in this are unique and modeled by me in Fusion360, functional design elements were inspired by the excellent "Bite Me Automatic Hook Setter" by IdahoThreeD. This updated design makes the following changes/improvements. New trigger body and lever to better expose the retainer hook, making it much easier to set and less likely to jam. A new series of triggers in various lengths that print without support, which include an adjustable seer engagement screw (use a 4-40 machine screw). This provides adjustable and repeatable sensitivity settings. An adjustable rod holder, modified to print without support. Many other dimensional changes and improvements to make things more printable. Added a parts list, and basic instructions, which seem to be missing in all other versions. Print Settings Printer Brand: Bambulabs Printer: Bambu P1S Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 25% Gyroid Filament: eSUN PETG Transparent Orange Notes: Most parts print without support if oriented correctly. The trigger body and lever will require some supports. For the lever, print on side and support the hook. For the body, I print flat upright, and support under the front of the two forward arms, and inside the opening for the shaft of the lever. I also support inside the socket when printing PETG because it doesn't bridge well for me. I recommend a brim when printing the rod holder parts so things don't fall over. It's easy to remove. Post-Printing Assembly instructions Print one of everything, except... 3 feet 2 washers 2 leg-retaining clips Parts you will need: (1) 1/4 inch pin with a working length of at least 1.5 inches (2+inches overall) (8) 1.75 inch 10-24 machine screws, washers and nylon lock nuts (1) 6-32 3/8 inch machine screw (1) 2 inch 10-24 hex-head bolt (I had to go to McMaster Carr for this) (1) 10-24 regular nut (or a 10-24 wing nut if you don't want to print the knob) (3) 4-40 5/8 machine screws (for the adjustable trigger seer) 48 inches of 1" square aluminum tube Instructions: Print the above parts and remove any supports. The trigger body and lever will need supports in some areas to print. I recommend a brim when printing the rod holder (and the bracket) or it may fall over. The remaining parts have an orientation where they can print without support. I recommend PETG, but PLA should work as well. If you are using the knob and not a wing nut, you will need to print the knob with an embedded nut. Place the knob top-up on the plate, and inset a pause operation just above where the socket for the nut completes. Then insert the nut at that point mid-print. The area above the nut closes slowly so that plastic won't droop into the threads. Insert the lever shaft into the trigger body then rotate to lock it in place. Put the button washer through the 6-32 machine screw, and screw it into the end of the lever shaft to hold the lever in place. Make sure the lever rotates freely and does not bind. Thread a 4-40 machine screw into each trigger to act as an adjustment screw. The head of the screw should face out, away from the body. Pick a trigger to install, and place a flat washer on each side. You might want to print these washer out of PLA, since it prints a smoother surface. Insert the hex head 10-24 bolt though the trigger body, though one washer, through the hole in the trigger, through the other washer, and then out the other side of the body. The knob screws on the end as a tension adjustment, and the hex head seats into a socket printed into the other side of the body. The bolt should seat fully so that it does not interfere with the motion of the trigger or the lever. Cut the 1-inch tube as follows. You can use a hack saw, or a chop saw with a carbide blade designed for cutting not ferrous metals. Just go slow and wear safety glasses. For my hook setter, I cut the tube to 28 inches, and cut the remaining section into 2 equal pieces of about 9 inches for the legs. NOTE: This will handle a rod with a length of about 32-33 inches. if you use a longer rod you should cut the main section longer (30 inches or more). It's no problem to make the legs a little shorter, keeping the total length of tube needed at 48 inches. Be sure to check the fit of whatever rod you are going to use. I realize than 1-inch square aluminum tube is expensive, but you can use any 1" square material such as wood, plastic, etc. If there is enough interest, I can design an adapter for round tube, making conduit or PVC a viable option. Drill holes in the tube sections for the 10-24 bolts to attach the feet, and the T fitting to the ends of the tubes. Be sure to drill the hole close enough to the end of the tube so that there is clearance, allowing the legs to rotate in and out on the t-fitting. Drill a number of holes (sized for a 10-24 machine screw) through the side of the main beam to attach the rod holder bracket. I drilled holes every inch over the last 8 inches or so of the beam. This allows for adjustment o