About this 3D model

Alright, time for a fun build! This one is an intermediate skill level build involving a few different electronic components, some soldering know-how, and a little light programming. It's a sandwiched design - a face print, base print, and a back plate. You'll need: Filament - I used eSun PLA+ in Black, Warm White, Yellow, and Metallic Silver. The silver is optional as a reflector layer (but recommended). A D1 Mini v3.0 Get it wherever you like to buy from, they can be had for as little as $1.5 each . I specifically used the v3.0 for the mounting holes! An L298N Motor Controller This will drive two PWM-controlled LED strips independently, $0.35/ea on AliExpress . If you want to use IC LEDs (WS281x), these are not necessary. A TTP223B Sensor got mine for $0.7 over on AliExpress . There are other versions that are smaller, but again I wanted this one specifically for the mounting holes. A USB-C Breakout board I used this one specifically for the mounting holes, wanting to get it in securely. White and Red COB LEDs I have spools of these things laying around and wanted to use up some of the red. I also used the cool white instead of my normal natural white. M3 Heat Inserts and a Bunch of Screws I didn't want to glue this thing together, so I did a bunch of screws instead. Used in this project: 8x M1.7x5 self-tapping screws (for the face) 4x M3x10 (anything 6-15mm length is fine) countersunk bolts for the backplate 2x M3x5 self-tapping screws (USB breakout) 2x M2.3x4 self-tapping screws (D1 Mini) 3x M2.1x4 self-tapping screws (TTP and L298 modules) You can individually source all these screws for a very low cost per/ea on Ali if you want. I have a very reasonably priced kit that has all them in it. Wire I used small segments of various colors of 22AWG solid-core wire in this project to connect the various bits together, as well as some 20AWG multi-core wire to run power around. I'd suggest you start by printing the midplate first so you can put all the electronics together while the face prints. Flash WLED to your D1 Mini and if you can rig everything up with temporary connectors to validate it functions. The config and presets I used are attached below if you'd like to upload them once your D1 Mini is flashed (change them to .JSON instead of .TXT). The rescue SSID ("angry-marines") PSK is “0123456789” so connect to it and join it to your home network. It should be visible as angry-marine.local on your network at that point. Wiring is as follows: PLEASE NOTE: the power in to the touch sensor is pulled off of the 3V3 pin on the D1 Mini, since it returns whatever voltage it is provided back out the IO pin. I did this so I wouldn't slam 5V back in to the D1's RX port. You may find it easier to remove the headers if your board has them soldered on already. The D1 Mini and LN controller take 5V from source, the LEDs connect to the output on the LN. Other than power, the following connections are made: There should be a little pinhole in your touch sensor, I connected a long length (~4ft) of white solid-core wire to this. RX (GPIO3) → IO (TTP) D1 (GPIO5) → IN1 (LN) D2 (GPIO4) → IN3 (LN) Strip “D1” is the white COB, strip “D2” is the red COB. In the end, you should have something like this. The red COB can be fed through the slits in the sidewall and stuck in place. Tuck the remote end in and it'll help prevent it from coming loose. The slot is big enough to accept 12mm wide strips if you want to use something like a WS2812B instead. Just for the sake of making life easy I grabbed a DuPont connector for the touch wire (the other end feeds in bare) and a JST-XM connector for the LED wires. You'll want SOME extra so you can assemble the thing, but not too much or else it'll ball up and show in the face of the print when illuminated. Secured it with a little harness tape. This is optional but make assembly suck a lot less. For the touch wire, I secured it along the edge of the face with some harness tape. Try to keep distance between the LED strip and touch wire as the strip can actually trip the touch sensor under certain conditions! Bundle it all up and screw all the parts together. As always I threw a little rug tape on the bottom of the base to help it not want to slide around on the wall. And that's it! In WLED you'll have two segments of “White PWM” lights. D1 is the white strip and I usually keep it pretty low since the red strip at full brightness isn't the brightest. It boots to preset two, where the red strip pulses with anger . As for the touch controls - a single tap triggers it on/off, a long tap rotates between either normal or night light settings, and a long tap sets it to full brightness. The touch sensor is kinda a novelty I was trying out and it does work but it's not incredibly sensitive. Sometimes I have to use my palm for it to pick me up properly, sometimes I can just tap two fingers along the front edge of the face. I used 5V components to control the heat COB LEDs like to put out. Under “normal”