MyDigitalSlot Basic Controller. DIY Arduino based Radio Controller for your 1/32 Digital Slot cars 3D model preview
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About this 3D model

My Store is Closed. Design not on sale here. Do not buy if you are allowed. With the STLs and indications in this publication, you will be able to print and build the MyDigitalSlot Basic Controller V1 you can see in the above and next video This piece of the MDS System is probably the most important, at less it is where I have spent more time, specially with code. It is made with easy to find electronic hardware, requires NO PCB, and it is BASIC because it is what I consider enough to interact with the car and with the other controllers. The same you can control the MDS cars, you could control other RC vehicles or gadgets, maybe your electrified Long Board?¿? As I hope you have seen in the first video, I have made four of these and linked each one to a car and a color. FEATURES:- Arduino based RF communication- Rechargeable, uses Li-Po 18650 cell as power source (the ones in laptop batteries)- Responsive Throttle Trigger, using Clipper lighter Spring- Informative, thanks to the 4x4 RGB led matrix- Interactive, with two extra joystick axis and the joystick's clic button- "Ergonomic", at less more than my "BigBoy Radio" ;)- Easily re-programable, with the Arduino's USB accessible without un-assembling BOM:- 1x Arduino RF-Nano, the black ones recommended- 1x UPS 1-cell LiPo Module- 1x 5050 4x4 Led Matrix- 1x Joystick for arduino- 10cm Female-Female Dupont cables- 1x 10K Potenciometer- 1x Sliding Switch - 1x 10x15x4 Bearing- 1x Clipper Lighter Spring- 2x M3x8 or M3x10 Counter-Sunk Screws- 2x M3x16 Socket Head Screws- 1x M3x20 Socket Head Screw I added the links to the products I bought, but I'm sure you can find same specs and size products nearer but probably not cheaper. ASSEMBLY It is not the hardest build in the world but you will need some skills, like soldering, accurate 3D printing and a minimum of electronics knowledge to better know what you are doing, but anyway I will tell you as much as I can to ensure you build it up correctly. The parts to print are just a few, the both big sides, the trigger and the trigger holder. Every electronic component will stay in place once you join both 3D printed sides. But there are a few cables in there! Let's see who is who and why are each one of them there. The UPS LiPo Module is easy to understand. You charge it by Micro-USB, has an UPS output with GND and 5V and a place to add a switch to turn the output ON/OFF. Four elements will need GND and 5V, those are the Arduino, the Joystick, the Potenciometer and the 4x4 LED Matrix. As you have to solder over the LED Matrix some cables and have four grounds and two VCC (5V), for me is the way I "distribute" the ground and 5V to each element. Please, see how I distribute and solder the cables in the pictures. Once the power distribution is clear, you will notice some extra connections are needed, the "signals"... The joystick remaining pins will be X, Y and SW, the central Pin of the Pot will be its signal and the "IN" of the matrix will be its data input. You can connect Joystick X Y and SW with 10cm Female-Female dupont cables to the arduino, the same than the Pot signal. I use half of this dupont cable to connect the Matrix IN to the arduino. Use the left 3D printed side of the radio to assemble it. Start inserting the Pot into the "Trigger Holder" and screw it in place with the two M3x8 screws. Find the middle position of the Pot and then insert the trigger over it in the position it will be when not triggered. That way, the "IDLE position" of your throttle will be around 512 (half of total 1024). Next try to dispose all the elements over the left part of the radio and, if you previously soldered your "Power distribution" cables you can really start the build. Add the X, Y and SW dupont cables to the Joystick and put it in place while trying to guide the cables to the "arduino's zone". Also add the dupont cable to the mid pin of the PotenciometerAdd the LED Matrix with all the power cables soldered to its place. Connect the very short GND and 5V duponts for the Joystick, half duponts for Pot (the ground is the one near the arduino) and the other pair of half duponts to Arduino 5V and GND. You will probably need some kind of thin tip pliers or other way to put each dupont cable in place. The connections with the arduino for the data cables are the next ones: - Joystick X --> Arduino Pin A3- Joystick Y --> Arduino Pin A5- Joystick SW --> Arduino Pin 6- Throttle Pin --> Arduino Pin A7- LED Matrix IN--> Arduino Pin 3 That way you will be able to use the same code than me with minimal modification.You will need to know your minimum and maximum throttle values and add them to the code until I program an "auto-throttle calibration" fuction or something like that. Once you have all the elements connected, you could upload the code to the arduino and see if the "screen" starts flashing in orange, which would mean "no car connected".If everything is OK, add the Clipper Spring, the bearing in the right side and maybe close the C